Paying the price

.

THAT little black dress might hug you at all the right curves but have you ever thought about all the energy and water that went into its construction, and the trail of waste left in its wake? The fashion industry leaves behind a huge environmental footprint, from the pesticides used in growing fibres to the chemicals leached from the textile industry, the energy required to produce and transport each piece, and the clogging of landfills when clothes are discarded.

According to the non-profit Earth Pledge, some 8,000 synthetic chemicals are used globally to turn raw materials into textile. If you want to stock your closet with eco-friendly clothing, read on:

Don’t be a slave to fashion

The greenest purchase is no purchase at all. Instead of prowling the mall, go through your closet and suss out apparel which you’ve hardly worn.

Wear organic

Cotton is marketed as clean and natural but conventionally grown cotton is anything but. In fact, cotton is among the most pesticide-sprayed crops. According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, 47% of the chemicals used to grow cotton are possible or known carcinogens.

Organic cotton, unfortunately, is not common locally although designer Melinda Looi has just launched one such line. Also, be vigilant to ensure you’re really getting clean, organic clothes because, although the cotton might have been organic to start with, the apparel could be laden with processing chemicals and metal-based dyes. Look for organic labelling and certification.

Seek out sustainable fabrics

The manufacturing process for petroleum-derived synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon requires vast amounts of water and energy. Also, synthetic fibres almost never degrade when discarded. Natural fibres made from cotton, hemp, bamboo, wood pulp, corn and even soya are said to be the least toxic way to go. They are compostable, feel better on the skin, and are less likely to give off harmful chemicals.

However, one should approach such fabrics with sceptic enthusiasm. The harvesting and processing of natural fibres can be energy-intensive, too, and polluting if unregulated.

Quality + Durability = Green

Fashion is fleeting. Styles change so fast that women regularly ditch still-in-good condition outfits for new ones. So as not to send more discarded duds into brimming-over landfills, re-think the way you shop. Choose classic pieces that will outrun short-lived fads, and quality items that will be long-lasting.

Eco-washing

How you launder your clothes can make a difference in your wardrobe’s environmental impact. Research shows that the greatest eco-burden from clothes is not in their construction and distribution, but in their use, specifically the laundering thereof. Washing clothing guzzles water, energy and chemicals. A Cambridge University study found that 60% of the greenhouse gases generated over the life of a T-shirt comes from its typical 25 machine washing and drying.

The solution? Wash your clothes on cold cycle as using hot and warm temperatures suck up electricity. And use phosphate-free and biodegradable detergent (see story on page 6). Then line dry instead of using the dryer to save even more energy.

Avoid buying clothes that require dry-cleaning as most laundries still use perc, a known carcinogen, for the job. Or choose a cleaner employing “wet cleaning” or other non-perc dry-cleaning techniques.

Buy pre-loved

Buying seconds is one of the easiest and most effective ways to keep clothes and other fashion paraphernalia out of landfills and to avoid the energy costs that go into brand new stuff.

Wearing a second skin

Buy leather bags and shoes only if you intend to keep them for years. The tannery industry is among the most polluting and water-intensive industries. And that snakeskin shoe or bag? It might have cost the life of an endangered species. Under newly enforced wildlife laws on trade in endangered species, goods made from parts of endangered wildlife cannot be traded without permits – so, be wary when purchasing handbags, shoes, wallets, belts and other accessories made from animal skin.

Green is the new black

If last month’s New York Fashion Week is any indication, green threads are definitely in style. Eco chic was evident on the runways, with several designers emphasising organic materials and sustainable designs.

At the concurrent GreenShows Eco Fashion Week, designers showed clothes that will make Mother Nature smile – newspaper ballgowns, recycled plastic sandals, coats made of wool from “happy and free” sheep, parkas made of yam-dyed Chinese silk, suede-like recycled polyester micro-fibre dresses, and silk dyed with pigments derived from pumpkins and red fruits. So, it will be a matter of time before such eco-friendly apparel becomes the norm.

Garment sleuthing

Amsterdam company Made-By has initiated a system that enables consumers to follow the manufacturing trail of clothes made by affiliated brands, from the cotton farmer to the tailor and the shopping racks.

With the database system Track & Trace, brands associated with Made-By can show consumers that the article of clothing they have purchased was produced in a sustainable fashion, using organic raw materials and under good working conditions.

Each company is given a score-card on how ethical they are at www.made-by.nl. To access the information, enter a code found on the clothing label (identified by a blue button) into the website.

02 March, 2010 by admin

Home